As an omnivore who still hasn’t discovered a game-changing veg-centric restaurant, I can’t help but roll my eyes when directed to check out the latest local healthy eating option. And it’s named Flower Child? Insert infinite eye-roll emoji here.
But this one’s in my ’hood, the latest Las Vegas installation from the people behind North Italia and Culinary Dropout, so I’m willing to give it a reasonable chance. Flower Child is a casual, counter-service concept, and good food served with functionality is hard to find in the restaurant-rich Summerlin area. So I get in the Saturday lunch line behind resident magician Mat Franco (does he live around here?) and get ready to eat not-meat.
Hold on. There’s meat here, and it’s treated well: grass-fed beef grilled and sliced and ready to add to your salad or bowl; all-natural, well-seasoned chicken that turns the Bird Is the Word wrap ($12) into a Chipotle-satisfaction-level burrito experience; and sustainably farmed salmon that rests nicely atop the Forbidden Rice Bowl ($9) with snap peas, bok choy and red chili hoisin sauce. If the Mat Franco stamp of approval doesn’t do it for you, I also spied James Beard Award-nominated chef Sheridan Su feasting with his family in the corner. Guess it’s legit.
This is how we should be eating most meals—lots of different fresh vegetables with just-right portions of grains and proteins. Flower Child shows it’s possible to cook and eat this way without sacrificing flavor or pricing us all out. Salads and bowls are $8-$9 ,with protein additions ranging from $4 tofu to $7 salmon. Tapas-sized veg plates like cauliflower spiced with turmeric, dates and almonds or red chili-glazed sweet potatoes with bok choy and sesame seeds cost $4 for one option, $7 for two or $9 for three. My most delicious pick so far is the Madras Curry bowl ($9), loaded with potatoes, carrots, green beans, sweet onions and cilantro with a coconut-based sauce of such high quality, I’d expect to find it in a fine-dining restaurant.
Flower Child truly serves something for everyone—even the crankiest of eaters.
FLOWER CHILD 1007 S. Rampart Blvd., 702-507-2545. Daily, 11 a.m.- 9 p.m.