Tableau is a true hotel restaurant. It really only exists to serve guests at Wynn’s luxurious Tower Suites, a rare fine-dining experience serving only breakfast and lunch, and brunch on weekends. A local would have no reason to eat at Tableau, unless that local is interested in one of the best lunch spots in the city.
The breakfast and brunch menus are great, too, but a new lunch menu introduced a few weeks ago truly shines, elevating a restaurant that has always been worth visiting. David Middleton, a talented chef who made his name in Las Vegas improving the neighborhood favorite Marche Bacchus before opening DB Brasserie at the Venetian two years ago, has been at the helm of Tableau for a little over a year now and has clearly found his rhythm there.
There are lunch favorites that will always be on the menu, like the chicken soup ($14), which packages the chicken in neat ravioli and the classic La Scala salad ($22) with salami and mozzarella decorating romaine in red wine dressing. But new creations like a beautiful beet soup ($17) deserve attention. Warm, pink and perfect for fall, it’s poured over velvety coconut cream with candied ginger and pickled blueberries, an ideal combination and presentation. The Tableau version of steak tartare ($24), a dish Middleton perfected at Marche Bacchus, is light on texture but rich with flavor thanks to a parmesan-truffle aioli.
For mains, you’ll be tempted to go with decadent braised beef shortribs ($29) or a burger ($25) topped with caramelized onions, roasted tomato and some of those shortribs. You won’t be disappointed either way, but it would be a shame to miss out on the perfect warm duck confit salad ($28) or a satisfying take on shrimp and grits done with buttermilk polenta ($28).
Las Vegas locals who love to dine typically know which Strip restaurants are worth the splurge, but perhaps Tableau has been missed by that audience. It deserves to be near the top of the category.
Tableau Wynn, 702-770-3330. Daily, 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
